It's that time of year when mildly obsessive people in possession of bicycles (or who have in their possession bicycles - I never really understood the former sentence construction, no matter how apt it might be in this particular case) start thinking about what to do with them when light returns once again to the world. One of the things that the more competitive and less self-preserving bike-nuts might wish to do is race them, but, if they haven't raced before, they might have a few questions about how best to go from now (being mildly inclined to race a bicycle) to then (being a taller, more suave Mark Cavendish and/or Marianne Vos. Maybe not taller than Marianne Vos. Maybe I should stop being heightist and get on with it...).
If they are you, or at least, you number among they, this post and the next one may be for you, providing clear but massively biased answers to the questions that come first to my mind when talking about British Cat 4 racing, based on one season's experience. Clear, I should clarify, in the way that these first two paragraphs aren't.
Enjoy.
1) What kit will I need?
This is a biggy, so let's break it down.
The Bike
"It's not about the bike." Except when it is. We need to subdivide further.
Frame/Forks
I've seen people win on all sorts, but there is a noticeable trade-off between skill needed and how easy your frame makes it. Fundamentally, weight doesn't seem to be as huge an issue in C4 as just riding a bike that you can make work for you. If you're a powerful rider, anything that fits will do you fine. If you're flexy, lightweight, and a bit of a wimp when it comes to putting the power down (like yours truly), you'll need something that's going to allow you to get into an aerodynamic position.
Frame aerodynamics are almost completely ignorable, and will provide a perceived difference only. Better to get something that handles well than something with slab sides and a flexy front end or BB in my book, but it really doesn't matter so long as you're comfortable.
As a general rule, if it's a cheap or obscure bike, you needn't be embarrassed about it. There are plenty of sporty Allez' racing, and a good few CX bikes with road wheels swapped in. Nobody will pay any notice.
On the other hand, if you have a flash bike, expect to need to hold your own. It's the (second) price you pay...
The range of bike will probably be a bit higher than on most of the local club runs, but will probably stop short of superbike territory. Last year, the field was probably about 3/4 carbon fibre, but the type of bike made no difference whatsoever to appearance or finishing position. Cheaper bikes tended to be ridden by less experienced or fit riders, but with a great many exceptions.
Wheels
Wheels make a difference. Aerodynamics are probably slightly more important than weight in most races, but try to get a pair that suits you. I prefer lighter, shallower wheels with more "snap" if the option is between that and a deep but slow to wind up aerodynamic pair. You can get away with stock wheels, but don't expect to see too many in the field, and if you've ever tried a better pair, you may have a sizable chip to carry on your shoulder.
Groupset
I have never seen Sora or Microshift raced, and I would not suggest you be the first to try. I run a Sora/Tiagra mix on my training bike, and would never take it to a race. You have to be prepared for a sprint finish, and the low-end groups are not suited for those stresses at all. The Sora upshifters are far too awkward to reach in a race situation and even when new both the front and the rear mech are far too reluctant to push the chain over.
The most popular racing gruppo seem to be various marques of Ultegra followed by 105, then Red, Dura-Ace and Force. There are a few riders on Campy, but it would be best to stick to a 10-speed system since it'll be virtually impossible to get a replacement wheel in case of a rear puncture otherwise.
I have yet to see an electronic group on a race bike yet, but with Ultegra Di2 coming out last year I expect 2013 will show 1 or 2. I don't think anyone's daft enough to take DuraAce Di2 to a C4 race - shifters and rear derailleurs are the most easily damaged components in any crash.
Clothing
Firstly - shoes. Mountain bike shoes are ok, but most riders will be in race shoes. Toe clips and flats are non-existent.
Everything else - take everything. If you're racing in Britain, you'll probably need it. Though there are rules regarding leg covering, I've never seen them enforced, so leg and arm warmers are usually a good idea even if just for the warm-up. A gilet is possibly the most useful bit of kit after the standard shoes, helmet, shorts and jersey. If it's raining, you'll be able to pin your race number to the gilet and put it over your coat to save you having to worry about number visibility if you change your mind about the jacket, and it'll help immensely with both aerodynamics and warmth. Do not underestimate how cold you might get if you are idling in an unmotivated group. On a similar note - shoe covers are very useful.
If it's wet, have a strategy for glasses. They will get covered with spray even if it's not currently raining - another good reason to have a gilet handy. I personally cannot deal with rain on my glasses, so leave them at the start if I think there's any danger of the lenses becoming obscured.
As for your own appearance - try to look dapper. A bike race is a beautiful thing, after all. If you're worried about shaving your legs - don't worry, and do it. If you aren't worried but just don't want to - don't. There will be other hairy-legged riders, many of whom probably faster than you.
Food and drink
Most C4 races are about long enough to need one 750ml bidon during the race, and an optional gel or two which are most conveniently located under the leg grippers of your shorts.
That concludes the first part of my anecdotal blatherings. Next time - questions about You!
No comments:
Post a Comment